By Brad Atwal.
‘Mongolia; the land of Nomads and no fences’; I saw this line written on the cover of a Lonely Planet travel guide once and this simple statement created an insatiable intrigue that put this amazing destination firmly in my sights. Usually a picture captures my imagination but this time it was a simple sentence that conjured up a vivid image of an endless panorama scattered with a unique culture made of hardy people living off their wits and whatever the land provided.
Soon after I saw this tagline, I started to do some reading. Sure, I have heard of Genghis Khan but I had not really taken any notice of who he was and what he achieved. Here was a man who had created the Mongol Empire and turned it into one of the largest empires the world had ever seen. His reach and influence was massive, stretching across most of Central Asia to the borders of Europe and down across modern day China. Yet when I spoke with people few ever gave him – or Mongolia – a second thought.
So it was with great excitement that I boarded the Trans Mongolian train in Beijing, which wound its way past sections of the Great Wall and outer Mongolia, for an overnight journey towards the Mongolian capital of Ulaanbaatar. After a night of disturbed sleep by customs officials coming into the carriage to stamp passports, and then a short stint off the train while they changed the bogey (the wheels under the carriage), I jumped out of bed to glance my first sights of Mongolia.
After I disembarked the train, I spent the week exploring the Gobi Desert on the back of a Bactrian camel (which has two humps, not one), by horse and jeep. It was nearing winter and I had the privilege of witnessing our guide utilising local GPS (ger, or traditional tent positioning system). My stay taught me some important things; firstly you should always try and travel much further afield and secondly, make sure you come in summer.
Also, make sure you know about Genghis Khan. The Mongolians have never forgotten about their national hero. His name features on everything, from the name of bars, restaurants, drinks and other assorted goods available in the state department stores.
So, what do you need to know about Mongolia if you want to plan a school group expedition?
When To Go
Your best bet is to visit Mongolia in summer. Known as ‘the land of blue sky’, Mongolia is a remarkable sunny country that enjoys 250 sunny days a year. Mongolia has warm summers and extremely cold winters. The best time to visit is May to September, although there are no guarantees that there will be good weather. In the summer, the weather can range from freezing rain and snow to temperatures above 39°C, with a possibility of fog, drizzle and torrential storms. The average temperature across most of the country is below the freezing point from November to March and close to it in April and October.
Winter nights of -40°C occur most years, and the minimum temperature recorded is -55°C. Summer extremes reach as high as 40°C in the Gobi Desert and over 33°C in Ulaanbaatar. Monthly temperature variations of 45°C to -55°C are not uncommon in many regions of Mongolia. Due to the nature of the weather, when travelling you should always take along clothing that you can layer on and off. The ideal months for active travellers really are between July and August.
About Mongolia
Mongolia is landlocked and with an average altitude of 1,580m (5,180 ft), it is one of the world’s highest countries. Between the deserts are saltwater and freshwater lakes, and Lake Hovsgol holds two per cent of the world’s fresh water – which is so fresh that you can drink it.
The nomadic lifestyle in Mongolia prevails even in the growing urban landscape around Ulaanbaatar, where gers (‘yurt’ is a Russian word for ‘ger’) are found between the crumbling Soviet-style buildings. The ger is the centrepiece of Mongolian traditions. The mobility of the tent suits the nomadic lifestyle, and the layout of the interior is culturally significant. The door always faces the south and the rear is reserved as a place of honour for guests, where a family altar is found decorated with family photos and Buddhist images.
The predominant religion of Mongolia is Buddhism, which has been revived following the lifting of the ban on religion in 1990. Historically, Mongolia has had close ties with Tibet through the Buddhist religion, and many similarities exist in the culture and lifestyle of these two countries.
Mongolian religion and their nomadic lifestyle is depicted in their music, literature and artwork. Throat (or Khoomi) singing is a particular style of male singing that requires special training and involves several notes being released at once from the base of the throat. Contortionism is also a Mongolian tradition, and dance performances will often include a sequence.
The language is Mongolian, which is part of the Ural-Altaic family that also includes Finnish, Turkish, Uzbek and Korean. The language is written using the Russian
Cyrillic alphabet.
Places And Things Of Interest
Gobi Desert
The Gobi Desert is an astonishing region blessed with true remoteness and rugged beauty. Due to the vast distances, it is best explored via a series of day walks, jeep rides or camel treks with local nomads. Be sure to stay at a traditional ger camp with Mongolian families, not the tourist-trap setups. The highlights of the Gobi include the ‘singing dunes’ at Khongoryn Els, named due to the sound they make on a windy day. However, do not expect just sand dunes in the desert. The Ikh Bogd Mountain (3957m), towers over the surrounding desert like a watchtower of the Gobi. For more ambitious groups there is the option to traverse the range and perhaps ascend the Ikh Bodh peak itself. In the southern Gobi you can view ancient petroglyphs and dinosaur excavation sites.
Naadam Festival
The colourful Naadam Festival is Mongolia’s annual celebration of all things Mongolian. The national holiday is observed right across the country and there are a series of small festivals that host horse racing, Mongolian wrestling and archery. The largest Naadam is held near Ulaanbaatar, however, a trip to a rural Naadam will provide a more authentic experience. Considering the rural population is largely nomadic, such a festival in a country setting is a wonderful way to see many Mongolian people converge in one large colourful gathering.
Trekking In The Altai Range
In the far west of the country is the Altai mountain range, a chain of mountains separating the nations of Russia, China, Mongolia and Kazakhstan. The key to trekking in the area is working with local knowledge, where the guide can utilise their nomadic contacts to provide your school with an amazing and unique itinerary. The region is home to intriguing ethnic groups such as the Khotont, who have followed migratory routes which are wonderful routes to follow and cross spectacular landscapes boasting deep river gorges, lakes, glacier capped peaks. It is also the place to head to experience the Kazakh people, who are renowned eagle hunters and trainers, or the hauntingly beautiful throat-singing of the Tuvan people. This is an exhilarating journey.
Karakorum
Five hours’ drive out of the capital Ulaanbaatar is the deserted ancient capital of Mongolia, Karakorum. Very little remains of Karakorum, from where Genghis Khan launched his mighty cavalry although one monument that does remain is the Erdenezuu monastery. This monastery had to face Soviet desecration during the twentieth century but is now being slowly and lovingly restored.
Ulaanbaatar
UB, as it is fondly referred to, is an interesting city but perhaps not the highlight of a visit to Mongolia. The city has a drab feel to it and one must be wary of pickpocketers. A visit to Sukhbaatar square, the central square, will inform you about the revolutionary hero of 1921, Damdiny Sukhbaatar, who declared independence from China. A short stroll will bring you to the National History Museum, dedicated to Mongolian history and culture. For a nice day-trip out of the city, head to the Terelj National Park, where the surrounding mountains provide wonderful, gentle hiking opportunities. You can also visit the Buddhist Meditation Centre, nestled in the nearby hills.
If you have never considered Mongolia for a student expedition, you are well advised to give it some serious thought. What you and your students will learn along the journey will only make you want to know more.
Brad Atwal works for World Youth Adventures, in which capacity he has taken school groups from Australia, North America and the UK to the world’s wildest places for over a decade. Brad can be contacted at brad@utracks.com.au
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